Photoshop sharpening without the horrible grainy and contrasty effect.
Here is a very basic sharpening method, but it is the chosen method of many professional photographers. Why? Because it sharpens the image without degrading the image like other methods do.
With your image open in photoshop, you first of all need to convert it to Lab Colour, by going to "Image/Mode/Lab colour"

Now go to your channel pallet and select the "Lightness" layer

With the lightness layer highlighted, go to Filters/Sharpen/unsharp Mask and adjust the sliders for optimal sharpness of your image 


Once done, change your colour mode back to RGB by going to Image/Mode/RGB
As you can see below, the difference between original, standard sharpening, and this method, are quite noticeable.
Original at 100% crop

Basic unsharp mask/sharpening method

Lab colour sharpening method

And the full image before and after:

After

Tutorial and images © Chris Hodgson
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No flies on you then Chris!! Keep em coming. It is just nice to see some folk taking the time to participate on this and other sites. I am getting a bit fed up of "like it" brigade. Not to mention single shot bloggers!!
Great/easy to follow instructions.
Cheers M8
Steve
My gallery: http://www.myfinepix.co.uk/gallery/117
My Photoblogs: http://www.myfinepix.co.uk/blog/117
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gr8, thanks for sharing Chris
shashank chaturvedi
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Cheers Chris, I have been using the High Pass Filter system, and I am looking forward to giving this a go.
Miek
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Just tried this out. Very good indeed Chris. Thanks for the tut.
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Thanks a million Chris, Just tried it and found it very easy to follow.
Cheers, Mike.
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What is good starting point for setting the sliders in unsharp mask.
Paul Royal http://www.myfinepix.co.uk/gallery/102
COMPETITION ENTRIES :- http://www.myfinepix.co.uk/competition/user/102
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The settings I used in the image above, are my default starting points except for the top amount % I keep radius at 1px and Threshold at 3 for 99% of any sharpening jobs, and just move the top amount slider. This seems to give the best all round results for me, but some people do go up to 3px + radius settings. Personally I find that anything above 1.5px radius starts to effect the image quality, and creates very high contrast edges.
Contrast winning image HERE . Others need not enter, as I've paid the judges, and fixed radar dart trackers to the image LMAO
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curious as to why your editing in 8 bit rather than 16 bit which is lossless, is there a reason for it Chris that i am missing?
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Thanks for that. Nicely explained. Will try it next time.
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No reason, just the first file that took my fancy, and it happened to be an 8 bit jpeg ;-) Plus those that would normally use 16 bit for editing, wouldn't really need this tutorial anyway
Contrast winning image HERE . Others need not enter, as I've paid the judges, and fixed radar dart trackers to the image LMAO
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still have to sharpen and wasn't meant to give offence, just trying to learn and if you don't ask, you never find out. This is a new technique to me and just trying to evaluate its effectiveness for me. I Presume there is no degradation to the file in switching between RGB and Lab Colour and back again?
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lol No offence taken
I always work from 16 bit for my images, and save working files as PSD's. Switching colour modes can effect the image, but the effect can be written on a pin head, it's that small ;-) The key to preserving the image as much as possible, is to preserve the layers you work on, and not to flatten an image when prompted to (when converting between colour modes).
To be honest, unless you are pixel peeping at images, the degrading issue isn't something anybody need worry about. IMHO for everyday editing of images, shot with every day cameras, and being viewed on every day screens or prints etc etc, it's just something people would never notice or need to worry about.
How many film photographers used to view their images via a microscope, so they could see every single grain on the film? We tend to get too obsessed with zooming in to fine detail on a pixel by pixel basis, just because it is now possible. If the image looks good on screen or print, that is all that matters. What is going on at a pixel by pixel or mode by mode basis, means nothing to someone just viewing the image.
Hell we can't even claim to see the same image on here, that we originally uploaded. WHY? Because ALL web browsers disregard the colour space of images, and rewrite them "on the fly" to sRGB. Even if the uploaded image is optimised for web use, and saved as sRGB, the browser will still convert it to sRGB again, thus degrading the image. Add that to the fact that 95% of sites process the images via server side software like GD, and your original image has been reprocessed 3 times before it appears in your browser window. So it's a never ending battle that your every day viewer is never going to worry about, understand, or really care about
Contrast winning image HERE . Others need not enter, as I've paid the judges, and fixed radar dart trackers to the image LMAO
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Thanx Chris,
Going to go and give it a whirl.
Take care
Andrea (Pixel-Diva) xx
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This is what I need. Thanks. now off to try it
B COOK
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Thanks Chris very useful tip
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Hello,
And thanks for this great tip. I have a question though if i may... i always resize my images in photoshop from 4000 x 3000 down to about 1300 x 975 for forums etc, so do i resize first and then sharpen, as sharpening before and then resizing seems to ruin the effect.
Thanks Col .
My Gallery : http://www.myfinepix.co.uk/gallery/76810
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Didn't know about this at all. Great tip and very useful for cleaning up soome slide scans from years ago. Many thanks.
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Thanks for sharing.
Please encourage the students from my school's photo club by posting comments
http://www.myfinepix.co.uk/competition/entry/376495
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g8 Post.. really needed that lesson